The New Boracay and Why I Miss the Old

Disclaimer: This post is 30% Boracay guide and 70% reflections and comparisons (of the old and the new), give or take. Also, if you’re not familiar about this Boracay reopening thing, it would be good to read at least one article online so you can relate.

Boracay reopened last October 2018, just a month before I left the Philippines for UK to work. I really wanted to go to Boracay for a variety of reasons: the island close to my heart, and my home, see the changes for myself, beach-ing can be a luxury once I start living in the UK. I wasn’t able to because that one month was spent running around getting things in place for my departure, and also ’cause I was broke.

A year after, I went home for vacation to the Philippines and my family and I agreed we’ll go somewhere near us instead of flying somewhere else. No question, it’s Boracay then.

Me and Boracay in the past

Apart from Boracay as a given famous and beautiful island, it is very accessible to me. I live in Iloilo, in the town of Pototan, about an hour bus ride from the city. From our town to the Caticlan Jetty Port, it’s about 5-6 hours by bus.

As a child, since my parents weren’t the traveling type, my first trip to Boracay was with relatives for my uncle and aunt’s post-wedding vacation trip. Then there were some other family trips after that. I was back there again for a conference for my scholarship.

During my Couchsurfing hosting days, I was surprised that there were tourists going around Iloilo back when it wasn’t the bustling city that it is now. The tourists, backpackers rather, were staying in Iloilo for two reasons: to take the ferry to Palawan, or go to Boracay. So I had travelers bringing stories about how they loved Boracay, or it was us (my family and I) telling them about the gem that is Boracay and what to do there.

During my traveling and soul-searching days, this time was when I’ve fallen in love with Boracay not only for its physical beauty but for the experiences that I had here. I partied in there, met some ordinary people who extraordinarily made an impact in my life and life decisions.

This was where I discovered that I’m a passive extrovert, or as what I’ve answered an interview for a volunteer opportunity in Boracay, I’m an introvert with a switch on button for extrovertness if I needed to. But that was because it’s for a pubcrawl company so I have to convince them, you know. That 10-day experience was just magical, party almost every night, fun here and there, wisdom here and there, calm here and there.

Guide Mode On

So because the bus to Caticlan Jetty Port just passes our hometown, we rode the bus from there (Fare, Pototan to Caticlan: P349 regular, P279 senior, PWD). If you’re from Iloilo City, take the bus from Ceres Terminal. First trip is around 3 AM and will cost you less than P400.

(If you’ve clicked the links above leading you to my old Boracay posts, I’ve mentioned some things there but I haven’t updated them, and sorry the photos were not showing ’cause I have yet to fix that post.)

Upon arriving at the Caticlan Jetty Port, you go to a counter there to pay for fees to cross to Cagban Port, Boracay Island. The difference from before is that you pay the three fees now in one counter wherein before, you go from one counter to another.

Terminal fee: P100
Environmental fee: P75 reg / P60 senior, PWDs, students
Pumpboat (motorized boat), 15 minutes travel time: P30

You have the option to take the ferry. I think it’s P50. Do note that they have scheduled times wherein the pumpboat leaves more often so check whatever works for you.

You also have the option to avoid the line (if there is) and go to a table in front of the entrance of the port. You pay P350 which includes the three fees, plus the transportation to your hotel. But, you know, we know better, lol.

From the Cagban Port to your hotel, and getting around:

Jeep/trike: P20-P25 per person
Trike for hire (Cagban to D’mall in St. 2 or from St. 2 to Yapak or Puka Beach, Diniwid Beach, or Ilig-Iligan: P200 approximately
Single motorcycles: P25-P50 per person on short distances

If you’re staying in posh hotels in Station 1 or Yapak area, scheduled shuttles are usually provided.

Going back to the mainland (Cagban to Caticlan), you will pay another terminal fee of P100.

Upon entering the port, for tourists, they will look for a confirmed hotel accommodation. If you don’t know this yet, these are the approved and compliant accommodations in Boracay and it is mandatory you have made a booking before crossing to the island. If not, I think you have to make a booking there at the desk. Check this link for the list as of October 2019. I don’t know how it’ll go if you’re going to stay with someone you know who lives there.

Also, you will fill up a form noting how many are you in your group and how many days you’re spending in Boracay. They’re now controlling the amount of tourists in the island.

I’ve booked us an accommodation at Station 1 which was just a short walk to D’mall in Station 2 which is the usual landmark, as you have noticed by now. And it so happened to be just a few steps away from the office of the pubcrawl company, so it was really nostalgic to be walking that alley again.

We arrived 31st of October so the island was in the mood for Halloween. Restaurants and hotels had their own gimmicks and were holding parties. That’s when I felt one of the changes. Maybe I wasn’t a good judge of whether the parties were a hit or not because I didn’t join any of them that night but I’d say they were quiet parties. And this was on a long weekend holiday, which before spells crowded beachside day and night.

Locals were joining in too.

Some tourists were dressed up too like this couple:

But our most favorite would be the big guy with the cute ladybug wings on his back.

The next morning, we head out to the beach for some pictorial and the beach was just immaculate.

And it wasn’t crowded.

via GIPHY

Like the usual, there were people selling activities. Back when it reopened, the activities were suspended for some time.

Me negotiating a deal with kuya for a parasailing we’re planning
This is a price guide from the hotel. You can negotiate prices with sellers at the beachside.

That night, my sister and I went to Club Galaxy. There’s a free shuttle to there, just go to D’mall and find the coordinator who lurks around Budget Mart and McDonald’s (just ask around). Entrance is free and you have a choice to get a table (starting at P1, 500) or not.

via GIPHY

Parasailing. Our mother was on the boat pulling us because she wouldn’t want to join in up above (max. 3 people for this activity)
A new hangout place called Station X somewhere in Station 3

I booked us a night somewhere far from the main beach for my mother ’cause the past few days were for us and our antics. The last day was for her relaxation. Along the way, there were some road works going on.

I told my sister and mother how I walked from Station 2 to Puka beach one time. It was a long walk but the road wasn’t like this at that time.

My sister and her obsession with fancy chairs. We arrived early for check-in so we had to wait at the lobby.
Mother’s way of relaxation is sitting down and brainstorming about matters at home and her school where she’s a Directress. 🤔

So off we went to Puka beach after check-in. As I’ve mentioned earlier, for a hotel like this in Yapak, they provide free shuttles to D’mall, and with our hotel, they also have a shuttle to the private area of the Puka beach.

We had a quick swim there. Unlike the main beach, the sand in Puka beach is not fine and the water a bit mad. See how we struggled for a good photo:

The last shuttle back to the hotel was 5PM and since we went there late, we decided to walk into the public area of the beach and just ride a trike back. The beach is entirely empty. There used to be beach lounge chairs cascading along the beach, and some seller stalls who usually sell the P350 shakes, lounge chair rental included.

When we arrived at around 6PM, there was no trike available unless we walk further to the main road. There were kind locals though who offered to bring us back to the hotel in their motorcycles for free.

We had some pool time before we checked out the next day.

Our mother looking like an endorser for the resort.
The view from the infinity pool

And that’s the end of our trip.

The recent changes for sure made Boracay pristine again and I’m happy with that ’cause this is an island I’m proud of, that I can recommend to non-Pinoy friends and tourists definitely. The main beach is not congested with people. The beach itself has little to none wastes and algae. It’s a perfect beach for people’s much needed R&R.

So why do I miss the old Boracay?

There was this time when we had lunch at a hotel’s restaurant at the beach side. I told my mother and sister, reminiscing with a very uplifted mood, pointing to a corner of the restaurant close to the beach, that right there, I used to man the pubcrawl spot to sell nightouts to people passing by.

My mother asked me which for me came across as sarcastic, “And you’re proud selling like that?” I told her loud and proud, yes. It was an experience I’ve learned a lot from.

It was such a humbling experience for me back then. It was a time when nurses around me were going abroad back to back and I felt like I was left behind and felt so stagnant because I know it’s not what I want to do but what else can I do? I just felt so powerless.

But that time spent manning the post and selling parties like the other tour operators going around selling water activities, I felt the simple joy of the locals and hotel and restaurant staff just going about their daily activities.

There’s the manager of the bar sipping some sample champagne wherein I had some taste test myself. The bartender and waiting staff were kidding around when there’s no customers but see that they handle orders so well. At around 4 or 5PM, they started putting tables and chairs outside to the beachside in time for dinner. Carts were wheeled into the beach area carrying the pillows and seat covers to complete the table set up. The calm day turns into a beautiful mayhem at night. Staff were entertaining customer orders, quick steps from the kitchen to the tables.

On days I was on pubcrawl duty, I laze the whole morning doing personal chores or some early morning swimming. In the afternoon, I go to the office sometimes to attend the team brief to organize the night’s party and at times to do small chores like responding to the social media comments, cutting leaflets, carrying paraphernalias from the office to the first bar. Then I do my job assisting the team captains in making sure the pubcrawl is organized, safe, and fun. I party with them, and go home early in the morning the next day and back to sleeping in the morning again. Yes, it was such a fun work, but I can tell you it’s really exhausting work keeping people happy.

That time, I wasn’t a tourist. I felt like for the time being, I was a local just going about my work day as well, taking a peek into what workers here would be talking about, what were they seeing, what they were doing. I had a taste of being in the hospitality and tourism industry and I’d say, like any other jobs, it’s not easy.

When they lost their jobs, or were job misplaced during the closure, I felt sad for them. Filipinos were clamoring it must be done, but I’ve seen these people work and found reasons why they work so hard, and witnessed them happily doing their jobs. It was an abrupt joblessness that they might not have prepared for.

Ate girl personally handing out tissues with enthusiasm at Club Galaxy

Many people means getting more chances to meet sensible people who gives random strangers, like me, advices. Each of them have different approaches to life, their career, and aspirations. Each of them have different perspectives on happiness, comfort, and success.

As a passive extrovert, I liked the crowd. It was just like one of those holidays in Boracay wherein I can pretty much compare it to Dinagyang season where you walk the roads skin to skin with other people, and going against the flow of the crowd will only get you lost. The hype of all the people present just gets me high as well.

I observed families and friends dining at the beachside with all those romantic and chill vibes, couples hanging around the beach with beers in hand, people making memories with the sandcastles, the fire dancers lighting up the night with the mysic music blaring across the long stretch of the beach. These were Boracay’s charms lost.

As an outgoing introvert going on a solo trip, when I see a supposed party that is almost dead, I just back out because I know it’d be difficult for me to socialize. However, when there’s a rave, I don’t hesitate because you know the crowd is up to welcoming you to the party. It’s easy to approach someone who is enjoying rather than itching to get out of a boring or awkward situation.

And for me, Boracay have always had this identity. Fun parties here are a sure thing. If people are looking for a peaceful beach to unwind, there are plenty of beaches in the Philippines for that. At least for me, Boracay is that one and only party island, but not anymore now.

I think I’m not making any point here 😂 I just want to say that the environmental changes were good but it affected many different little things about the island which I loved before and that just made me sigh.